Wat Bowonniwet Wihan Ratchaworawihan: Excellent Abode Monastery

Wat Bowonniwet Wihan Ratchaworawihan, a first-class Royal temple in Bangkok Phra Nakhon district. The name literally translates as the ‘Excellent Abode Monastery’, but the meaning behind the name is ‘Temple where the Viceroy Resides’.

It is the center of the Thammayut Nikaya sect in Thailand and has been a major temple of patronage for the Chakri dynasty. Likewise, it is the Royal Temple par excellence and is where many royal princes studied and entered the monastic life, including the following Kings: Rama IV, Rama VI, and RamThe temple, also known as Wat Bovornives was built during the reign of King Nangklao (Rama III) in the first half of the 19th century when it was called Wat Mai. Originally there were two temples separated by a canal, the Wat Rangsi Sutthawat and the Wat Mai. In 1923 the two temples were merged into the Wat Bowonniwet.

It is the center of the Thammayut Nikaya sect in Thailand and has been a major temple of patronage for the Chakri dynasty. Likewise, it is the Royal Temple par excellence and is where many royal princes studied and entered the monastic life, including the following Kings: Rama IV, Rama VI, and Rama VII.

The temple, also known as Wat Bovornives was built during the reign of King Nangklao (Rama III) in the first half of the 19th century when it was called Wat Mai. Originally there were two temples separated by a canal, the Wat Rangsi Sutthawat and the Wat Mai. In 1923 the two temples were merged into the Wat Bowonniwet.

The Temple Precincts

Buddhist monasteries are typically divided into two sections: Buddhavasa (sanctuary), buildings and structures devoted to the Buddha, such as the Uposatha hall, the Cetiya or Stupa, and Sanghavasa, containing residential dwellings for monks (bhikkhus) and novices (samaneras).

Structures of the Wat Bowonniwet

The Wat Bowonniwet is a large temple comprising of an ubosot, a chedi, several viharns, a Ho Trai or scripture library, a Bodhi tree building, several Royal residences, the kuti (monks living quarters), and a bell tower.

Ubosot

The ubosot (bot for short) or ordination hall was built during the reign of King Rama III. It is considered the holiest of rooms in the complex and is where ordinations take place. The entrance door is richly decorated with gilded carvings. Murals from the second half of the 19th century depict stories from Buddhist teachings. The murals on the bot’s interior walls were traditionally light and limited in subject matter and style and were painted to appear three-dimensional. Monk artist Khrua In Khong introduced western style into the murals which depict Buddhist subjects.

The T-shaped bot holds a magnificent Sukhothai-period Buddha, cast in 1257 CE to celebrate freedom from the Khmers. In fact, the bot enshrines two large golden Buddha images. It is rated as a must visit as the statues are so big and impressive.

Chedi

The temple’s most noticeable structure, the 50-meter-high golden chedi is the most important structure of the temple since it enshrines sacred relics. The golden chedi at the wat's shrine carries the relics and ashes of Thai royalty. The T-shaped Ubosot holds a magnificent Sukothai period Buddha, Phra Phutthachinasi, cast in 1257 A.D. to celebrate victory over the Khmers. The two viharas are normally closed to the public. There is also a large double footprint of the Buddha, measuring three and a half metres in length, which is very well carved out of a single block of stone.

The chedi sits on an elevated base with a lower and upper terrace. The lower terrace contains depictions of celestial beings from Hindu mythology. At each of the corners of the terrace is a small prang (Khmer-style tower) enshrining an image of the Buddha in the Abhaya (dispelling fear) mudra.

Viharn Geng and Viharn Phra Sasada

The Viharns, also known as Sermon Halls, can sometimes be busy places within temple grounds. The Viharn Geng features images of the Buddha. The base of one contains some of the ashes of King Mongkut. The Viharn Phra Sasada has two rooms, the front room contains the Phra Sasada Buddha image, after which the Viharn was named, in front of it is an ancient Mon Dvaravati era stone Buddha image. The second room features a reclining Buddha image called Phra Saiya.

Bodhigara – Bodhi tree building

The Bodhigara is a structure built to protect a Bodhi tree. The original tree is believed to be an offspring of the tree under which the Buddha reached enlightenment 2,500 years ago. This original Bodhi tree was planted in the temple grounds by King Mongkut. The original Bodhi tree did not survive so King Bhumibol planted another tree, another offspring of the Bodhi tree in India.

Phra Tamnak residences

The grounds of Wat Bowonniwet contain several Phra Tamnak buildings. They are residences for royalty or high-ranking Buddhist monks.

How to get to the Wat Bowonniwet

The temple is located on Phra Sumen Road in Bangkok’s Phra Nakhon district.

You can get there by river boat, taxi or tuk tuk.

There is no BTS Sky Train station nearby.

Taxi or tuk tuk

The easiest and most comfortable way to get there is by metered taxi. The ride from the Grand Palace area should cost between 50 and 100 Baht depending on traffic.

If you are close to the temple, you can take a tuk tuk.

River boat

The nearest Chao Phraya river boat pier is Phra Athit on the orange line. From there, it’s about 700 meters away.

Opening hours

Wat Bowonniwet Vihara can be visited every day of the week from 6am until 6pm. The Ordination Hall is only open for morning prayers from 8am until 8:40am and again for evening prayers from 8pm until 9pm.

Admission Price: Free entry.

Things you should be aware of when visiting Wat Bowonniwet Vihara:

Respectful attire is required. Wat Bowonniwet Vihara is a functioning Thai Buddhist temple, and as such the management insists that visitors dress in a respectful manner. This means that men must wear long pants and short-sleeved or long-sleeved shirts (no tank tops or sleeveless shirts). Women must wear skirts or pants extending at least to the knee, and also should not wear a top that reveals bare shoulders.

Visitors are allowed to take photographs in any area of the complex.

The Wat Bowonniwet Vihara is an important Royal temple, so please dress appropriately (no revealing clothes). Also remember to behave appropriately, be quiet, and be respectful as many locals attend to pray and worship.

Other temples to visit nearby include:

Golden Mount and Wat Saket

Wat Suthat and The Giant Swing

The Grand Palace – Wat Phra Keaw